The Origins of Tanchoi Silk

 

While deeply connected to Banaras's rich tradition of silk weaving, the origins of Tanchoi trace back to China, brought to India by silk-loving Parsi traders.

The Role of Parsi Traders

In the late 18th century, the Parsis of India's west coast emerged as prominent players in the Indo-Chinese trade. By 1810, over 14 Parsi-owned shipping companies were operating out of Bombay, dominating trade between the two regions. They exported cotton and opium to China and, in return, imported exquisite Chinese silk. This trade not only flourished but also ushered in prosperity and significant lifestyle changes. Chinese woven silks and brocades became highly prized, and brocade slippers and specially woven silk shoe pieces were commonly ordered.

 

The Origins of Tanchoi Silk  

 

The story of Tanchoi begins in the mid-19th century. Around 1856, Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, a renowned Parsi merchant, commissioned three weavers from the Joshi family of Surat—traditional weavers—to travel to China. Their mission was to learn the art of weaving a particular brocade silk. Upon their return, these brothers adopted the name of their Chinese teacher, Chhoi, who had imparted his silk weaving expertise to them. "Tan," akin to the Gujarati word "tran," meaning "three," referred to the three brothers. Thus, the silk they mastered came to be known as Tanchoi.

  

The Artistry of Tanchoi Weave

Tanchoi weaving is a complex and technical process that utilizes a single or double warp and two to five colors on the weft, often in harmonious shades. The resulting fabric is lightweight, soft, and boasts a satin finish.

• Types of Silk Used: Tanchoi typically uses high-quality silk threads, including Mulberry silk, known for its fine texture and durability. Occasionally, zari (gold or silver threads) is incorporated to add richness.
• Silk Consumption: A single Tanchoi saree can require anywhere from 500 to 800 grams of silk, depending on the complexity and density of the design.
• Time to Weave: Creating a Tanchoi saree is labor-intensive, often taking two to three months to complete. This includes the intricate process of setting up the loom, dyeing the threads, and the meticulous weaving process itself.

19th Century Tanchoi Designs

 In the 19th century, Tanchoi sarees were characterized by their grand pallus adorned with bootis or diamond patterns. The body of the saree often featured small and large paisley motifs, and zari (gold or silver thread) was intricately woven to highlight specific design elements. Tanchoi was not limited to sarees; it was also sold by the yard, highly favored by Parsi women for their blouses. The fabric's luxurious feel made it a cherished part of a Parsi bride's trousseau, and affluent women even used Tanchoi to craft elegant shoes, a unique fashion statement inspired by China.

The Decline and Revival of Tanchoi

The early 20th century saw a decline in Tanchoi weaving. European fashion trends overshadowed traditional Chinese styles, and the introduction of power looms further contributed to this decline. Additionally, the Parsi community, who were the main patrons of Tanchoi, began to prefer lighter fabrics like georgettes and lace over heavy silks. Consequently, Tanchoi production in Surat ceased. However, the craft was later revived by skilled weavers in Banaras (Varanasi), ensuring its legacy continued.

Types of Tanchoi Weaves

Tanchoi weaving is a complex and technical process that utilizes a single or double warp and two to five colors on the weft, often in harmonious shades. The resulting fabric is lightweight, soft, and boasts a satin finish. Here are some fascinating types of Tanchoi weaves:

• Satin Tanchoi: This weave features a satin base of a single color, with weft threads in one or more colors. These additional weft colors can also be used as a body weft, adding depth and dimension.
• Satin Jari Tanchoi: An extension of Satin Tanchoi, this weave incorporates a combination of silk and gold threads (or two silk threads and one gold thread) in the weft, creating a luxurious and opulent fabric.
• Atlas or Gilt: Known for its pure satin surface, Atlas or Gilt is heavier and shinier than other fabrics due to the extensive use of zari. This type of Tanchoi exudes grandeur and sophistication.
• Mushabbar: Distinctive for its net-like woven design that resembles bushes or tree branches, the Mushabbar design is often associated with nature’s greenery and evokes a sense of tranquility and elegance.

Little-Known Facts about Tanchoi

1. Parsi Influence: The Parsis, known for their keen sense of fashion, significantly influenced the Tanchoi weaving technique. Their patronage not only helped the art flourish but also integrated it into their cultural attire.
2. Versatile Fabric: While Tanchoi sarees are the most well-known, the fabric was also used to create intricate home decor items like cushion covers, wall hangings, and even luxurious draperies.
3. Labor-Intensive Craft: A single Tanchoi saree can take several months to complete due to the intricate and labor-intensive weaving process, reflecting the weavers' dedication and skill.
4. Banarasi Resurgence: The revival of Tanchoi in Banaras not only preserved the craft but also infused it with new life, blending traditional designs with contemporary patterns to cater to modern tastes.

Material used

The material used for weaving of “Tanchoi Dress material" is twisted two fold mulberry silk yarn, locally called “Katan” in both warp and weft Tanchoi is one of the weaving techniques involving single colour warp and up to five colours in weft.

 In Tanchoi sarees, the designs are always figures of flying birds, paired cocks amidst floral sprays, which are worked all over the body surrounded by flowers and baskets containing flowers. Sometimes the pallu is done more solidly with peacocks, baskets or bunches of flowers or hunting scenes. Tanchoi silk sarees are also ornamented in some ravishing floral, geometrical and paisley designs. 

How to distinguish Tanchoi Saree:

• Feel of the fabric is very smooth.
• Base fabric weave is satin.
• Density of warp is very high compared to weft.
• No floats are visible in back side of the fabric which is flat in appearance.
• Back side appear as a shadow of designs of the face side

Embracing Tradition with a Modern Twist

Tanchoi’s evolution reflects a beautiful blend of tradition and modernity. Its intricate weaving techniques and luxurious feel make it a timeless fabric, while contemporary designs and trends ensure its relevance in today’s fashion landscape. Whether for weddings, festive celebrations, or everyday elegance, Tanchoi continues to captivate fashion enthusiasts with its rich heritage and modern appeal.
 Tanchoi remains a testament to the rich cultural exchange between India and China, and the enduring legacy of skilled artisans who continue to weave stories through their threads. At Bbaawri, we celebrate this heritage by offering exquisite Tanchoi pieces that honor tradition while embracing modernity.